Working With Retinol

Cutaneous aging encompasses both physical and psychological transformations, with visible manifestations such as wrinkles and alterations in skin texture impacting social interactions and overall well-being. This process is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, with direct sun damage being a predominant contributor. While skin aging is unavoidable, measures can be taken to mitigate its impact. Topical rejuvenation strategies remain at the lower end of the risk spectrum compared to invasive injectables or surgical approaches.

However, the implications of skin aging extend far beyond the aesthetic. Recent research underscores the profound psychosocial impact of facial dermatoses and aging, linking perceptible skin changes to decreased self-esteem, social anxiety, and even depressive symptoms in affected individuals. In a society where youthful appearance is often equated with health and vitality, the demand for effective interventions has surged. The global market reflects this shift, with a marked increase in the consumption of anti-aging products and non-invasive cosmetic procedures. According to recent statistics from the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), non-surgical procedures such as chemical peels and photorejuvenation have seen exponential growth, driven by patients seeking visible results without the downtime associated with surgery. Patients are also willing to protect their skin against pollution that accelerates the skin aging process. Despite this shift towards minimally invasive techniques, topical treatments remain the foundation of any comprehensive anti-aging regimen.

Nevertheless, realistic expectations must be established regarding the overall impact on facial morphology, as even optimal topical skin rejuvenation programs cannot mitigate volumetric changes.

Consequently, as anti-aging treatments remain highly relevant, current therapeutic approaches are predominantly topical or minimally invasive, leading to rigorous testing of advanced formulations. Retinoids have long been established as a cornerstone in the prevention and treatment of photoaging, as several, and particularly tretinoin, have demonstrated the ability to enhance skin texture, reduce rhytids and dyschromia, regulate keratinocyte growth and differentiation, induce epidermal hyperplasia, compact the stratum corneum, stimulate collagen synthesis, inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) responsible for collagen degradation, and promote the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils. The mechanism of action involves the binding of retinoic acid to nuclear receptors (RARs and RXRs), which subsequently modulate gene expression to promote cellular turnover and extracellular matrix repai.

This balance between cell proliferation, differentiation, and desquamation is crucial for treating keratinization disorders such as psoriasis, lichen planus, and various ichthyoses, as well as ameliorating fine wrinkles. Furthermore, several retinoid compounds have exhibited promise for the prevention and treatment of non-melanoma skin cancer in experimental settings. However, the use of retinoids is not without its challenges. Common adverse effects include erythema, peeling, dryness, and a sensation of burning or tightness. These side effects can lead to decreased patient compliance and discontinuation of treatment.

Nonetheless, many of these compounds have not been studied in human subjects nor in clinical trials at this time.

While tretinoin is the most potent, its use is often limited by “retinoid dermatitis,” characterised by erythema, scaling, and burning. Consequently, there is a continuous search for retinol formulations that can deliver comparable efficacy to prescription retinoids but with an improved tolerability profile. Thus, it is crucial to balance the therapeutic benefits of retinoids with their potential to cause irritation, especially in individuals with sensitive skin.

It is important to use stabilised retinol, which is achieved with the use of specific carriers and vehicles. For this reason, the efficacy of retinol in the treatment of photodamage depends greatly on formulation and its mode of delivery to the target area. These two factors will be key to determining the efficacy and tolerance of the various retinoids present in the market.

Although most retinoids used in topical applications must be converted to tretinoin after application, raising questions about their efficacy compared to tretinoin, there is substantial evidence that retinol can improve various cutaneous signs related to photoaging. Tretinoin is cost-effective but more irritating and photolabile than other retinoids. Retinol is also better tolerated than tretinoin, a finding crucial for patient compliance and satisfaction. The critical challenge in retinoid therapy is balancing efficacy with tolerability. The initial irritation observed is consistent with the pharmacological action of retinoids, which initially disrupts the stratum corneum barrier function before strengthening it. Truchuelo et al. similarly reported that side effects such as peeling and tightness are transient and peak during the first weeks of treatment, subsiding as the skin’s tolerance threshold increases.

Vitamin A [retinol] is crucial for various cellular processes and either oral or topical retinoids are contraindicated in pregnancy due to their potential to cause abnormal embryonic development. While the systemic absorption of topically applied retinol is limited and epidemiological data have not definitively confirmed a causal link to birth defects, the theoretical risk necessitates a strict contraindication as a precautionary measure in clinical dermatology.

This absolute restriction creates a significant therapeutic void for patients seeking to maintain skin rejuvenation regimens during gestation, and although chemically distinct from the vitamin A family, Bakuchiol functions as a functional retinoid analog that regulates a gene expression signature similar to that of retinol, including the upregulation of type I and IV collagen and the stimulation of aquaporin-3. Crucially, Bakuchiol achieves these anti-aging effects without binding to retinoic acid receptors (RARs), thereby circumventing the teratogenic potential and the classic irritative profile associated with retinoids. Consequently, Bakuchiol represents a promising, safety-conscious therapeutic option for managing photoaging in those pregnant or lactating who are otherwise precluded from using standard retinoid therapies.

In conclusion, new retinol formulations tested seem to show significant clinical efficacy in improving signs of photoaging, along with a favourable safety profile. The reduction in adverse effects over time and the high level of satisfaction suggest that these formulation could be a valuable topical option to help prevent and treat photoaging.

NOT MY OWN WORK. Taken from:

Llamas-Velasco, M.; Vitale, M.; Eguren, C. Efficacy and Safety of a New Retinol Formulation in Amelioration of Photoaging: A Pilot Clinical Study. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 95. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020095

Copyright © 2026 by the authors.

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