Notes on Serums

A facial serum is a skincare product specifically formulated to deliver concentrated active ingredients directly to the skin. Typically lightweight, serums are designed to penetrate deeply, addressing particular skin issues. In contrast to creams or lotions, serums are generally water- or oil-based and possess a thinner consistency, facilitating easy absorption. These products are rapidly absorbed and penetrate the skin's layers effectively. With a non-greasy finish and a potent formula rich in active ingredients, they enhance skin texture, resulting in a soft, silky, and radiant appearance. The formulation ensures excellent Spreadability, reduces the visibility of pores, and boosts skin hydration levels.  Facial serums are characterized by their lightweight texture and high concentration of powerful ingredients. Unlike standard moisturizers or creams, facial serums have a thinner consistency and a pleasant lightweight feel. While most serums are formulated with a water-based composition, some may also contain oil.

An oil-based serum is among the most straightforward facial serums to create. It generally begins with a foundation of high-quality, quickly absorbing carrier oils, commonly known as "dry" oils. These superior oils provide not only hydration and barrier-repairing properties but also supply polyphenols, essential fatty acids, and various nutrients that are beneficial for skin health.

Common Ingredients in Oil-Based Serums:

• Carrier Oils (the base oils):

  • Jojoba Oil – Balancing, closest to skin’s sebum.

  • Argan Oil – Nourishing and anti-aging.

  • Rosehip Oil – High in vitamin A and C, promotes skin regeneration.

  • Marula Oil – Rich in antioxidants, fast-absorbing.

  • Squalane – Lightweight, non-comedogenic, deeply hydrating.

• Essential Oils (used in small quantities):

  • Frankincense – Healing and anti-inflammatory.

  • Lavender – Calming and antimicrobial.

  • Tea Tree – Great for acne-prone skin.

• Oil-Soluble Actives:

  • Vitamin E – An antioxidant that supports skin repair.

  • Retinol (Vitamin A) – Anti-aging, cell turnover (some formulas).

  • CoQ10 – Boosts collagen production.

Choosing the right oil serum for skin type:

• Dry/Mature Skin: Heavier oils like avocado, argan, and marula are ideal.

• Oily/Acne-Prone: Look for non-comedogenic oils like jojoba, squalane, and tamanu.

• Sensitive Skin: Go fragrance-free or minimal essential oils (e.g., chamomile, calendula oils).

• Combination Skin: Use sparingly or apply only to drier areas.

Gel serums produce a "tightening" feeling on the skin, leading users to perceive a temporary lifting or firming effect in targeted regions of the face.

Who Should Use a Gel Serum?

• Oily/Combination Skin: Perfect — adds hydration without heaviness.

• Acne-Prone Skin: Lightweight and non-comedogenic, especially with salicylic acid or niacinamide.

• Dehydrated but Oily Skin: Replenishes water content without oils.

• Hot/Humid Climates: Won’t feel greasy or melt off.

• Teen Skincare or Beginner Routines: Gentle and easy to tolerate.

Tips for Choosing the Right Gel Serum:

• For Hydration: Look for hyaluronic acid, panthenol, aloe vera.

• For Brightening: Choose one with niacinamide or vitamin C derivatives.

• For Acne: Get one with salicylic acid, tea tree, or zinc PCA.

• For Soothing: Try centella asiatica (cica), green tea, or allantoin

A water-grounded serum is essentially a water-based serum — its primary base being water. These serums are designed to:

• Penetrate quickly into the skin,

• Deliver high concentrations of water-soluble actives,

• Provide hydration at the cellular level without clogging pores or adding oil.

  
  

They’re called "grounded" in water because their foundation and function both center on hydration, balance, and bioavailability.

Who Should Use a Water-Grounded Serum:

• Those with Oily or Acne-Prone Skin

• Dehydrated Skin (lacking water, not oil)

• Sensitive or Reactive Skin

• People Living in Humid Climates

• Anyone Layering Multiple Products

An emulsion-based facial serum acts as a moisturizer that fortifies the skin's barrier while providing powerful active ingredients. Emulsions consist of two immiscible phases, such as oil and water, which inherently resist blending. This distinctive formulation is particularly effective in delivering high-performance actives deeply into the skin's tissues. While the skin's barrier is inherently robust, the challenge of penetrating the dermis with cosmetic ingredients persists. Nevertheless, oil and water emulsions are exceptionally effective in overcoming this barrier. Additionally, the moisturising attributes of the emulsion greatly improve the skin's barrier function.

Who Should Use an Emulsion Serum:

Dry or Dehydrated Skin — Extra moisture without the heaviness of cream.

Sensitive or Barrier-Damaged Skin — Gentle formulas help calm and protect.

Mature Skin — Offers plumping, smoothing, and barrier support.

Minimalist Routines — Can act as both serum and light moisturiser.

Layering Fans — Works beautifully under richer creams or oils in winter.

To fully harness the advantages of face serums, it is important to integrate them into your daily skincare regimen. Adhering to best practices, such as applying the serum to clean, dry skin in moderate amounts and layering it with compatible products, will yield optimal results. Consistency is essential; regular application over time can result in significant enhancements in your skin's texture, tone, and overall appearance. Selecting the appropriate serum for your specific skin type and concerns is vital. If you are trying a new product, particularly if you have sensitive skin, conducting a patch test is advisable. While serums can enhance the efficacy of other skincare products, they should not substitute for sunscreen. Daily sun protection is crucial to shield your skin from harmful UV radiation.

Taken from:

Sanjana Deshmukh*, Dr. Nikita Parage, A Comprehensive Review on Face Serum, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 5, 4229-4246. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.15512543