Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits are able to affect the biological functioning of skin owing to type of functional ingredients they contain. These are skin-care products that go beyond colouring and adorning the skin.

Such products improve the functioning/texture of the skin by encouraging collagen growth by combating harmful effects of free radicals, thus maintaining keratin structure in good condition and making the skin healthier.

Hydroxy Acid: Hydroxy acid also referred to as fruit acids; they are a common ingredient found in many cosmeceutical products. Examples include citric acid, malic acid, and lactic acid. AHAs improve skin texture and reduce the signs of aging by promoting cell seeding in the outer layers of the epidermis and by restoring hydration. One hypothesis suggests that AHAs reduce the calcium ion concentration in the epidermis and, through chelation, remove the ions from the cell adhesions, which are thereby disrupted, resulting in desquamation.

Botanicals: Botanicals comprise the largest category of cosmeceutical additives found into the market place today. Some botanicals that may benefit the skin include green tea extract, ferulic acid, and grape seed extract. 

Ferulic acid: This compound, which is derived from plants, is considered to be a potent antioxidant, and has been shown to provide photo protection to skin. Furthermore, when ferulic acid is combined with vitamins C and E, the product has been shown to provide substantial UV protection for human skin. Moreover, Murray et al. reported that because its mechanism of action is different from sunscreens, ferulic acid could be expected to supplement the sun protection provided by sunscreens.

Grape Seed Extract: This botanical has been established as a potent antioxidant and has been shown to speed wound contraction and closure. Topical application of grape seed extract has also been shown to enhance the sun protection factor. 

Depigmenting Agent: Skin-lightening agents added to product formulations have become increasingly popular and such products are in demand. Common depigmenting ingredients include hydroquinone, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, and licorice extract (glabridin). Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone has been the popular agent of choice for skin lightening. The US FDA has proposed concentrations between 1.5% and 2% in skin lighteners. A recent study suggests that this concern has been based mainly on studies with animal models International Journal of Science and Research Archive, 2023, 08(01), 649–654 651 utilising long-term exposure at high dosages are carcinogenic. Routine topical application may pose no greater risk than that from levels present in common foods (Note Hydroquinone, in the UK and in other countries, is only available in prescription products)

Exfoliants: Exfoliants promote skin turnover by removing adherent cells in the stratum corneum. Common exfoliants found in cosmeceutical preparations include salicylic acid (SA), lactic acid, and glycolic acid. There are concerns that repeated use of SA and AHAs could cause the dermis and epidermis to be more vulnerable to penetration by UV radiation. 

Moisturisers: Moisturisers restore water content to the epidermis, and provide a soothing protective film. They improve the appearance and tactile properties of dry and aging skin, restore the normal barrier function of the skin, and reduce the release of inflammatory cytokines. Moisturisers comprise an important therapeutic component in the management of various skin conditions (e.g. eczema, psoriasis, pruritus, and aged skin). 

Topical Peptides: Topical peptides are regarded as cellular messengers that are formed from amino acids and are designed to mimic peptide fragments with endogenous biologic activity. These pentapeptides are comprised of a subfragment of type I collagen propeptide and play a role in signalling fibroblasts to produce collagen in the skin, which can improve the appearance of wrinkles. 

Retinoids: Retinoids are among the most common ingredients found in cosmeceuticals. In fact, they are the most studied and have the most data behind them. They consist of natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A that reduce hyperpigmentation and inhibit enzymes from breaking down collagen. 

Sunscreen: Sunscreens are the single most important cosmeceutical, because they protect skin against solar radiation, which is the most important damaging environmental agent. As a result, they help to prevent the signs of aging. To be effective, sunscreens should provide broad spectrum coverage that includes both UVA and UVB blocking agents to inhibit photoaging and be part of a daily skin care regimen. Sunscreens contain active ingredients that act as ultraviolet filters.

Antioxidants: Antioxidants reduce free- radical damage, thereby preventing impairment at the cellular level. They inhibit inflammation, which leads to collagen depletion, and they offer protection against photodamage and skin cancer. Common antioxidants include alpha-lipoic acid (ALA), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), niacinamide (vitamin B3), N-acetyl-glucosamine (NAG), α-tocopherol, and ubiquinone.

The usage of cosmeceuticals has drastically hiked in recent years, which in turn has increased the spectrum of the physician to broaden their range of products to enhance the comeliness of the patients associated with dermal problems. However, at times, where generations are keenly worried for their beauty, lots of manufacturing companies are competing and working hard to provide convincing results to meet requirements of all..

Claims of effectiveness lack convincing evidence, thus the industry is challenged to provide evidence on the effectiveness of these compounds. Cosmeceuticals like vitamins, sunscreens, hydroxyl acids & many more have proved their efficacy in treating skin diseases thus enhancing the skin texture. Clinical trials of cosmeceuticals are important to know the interaction between skin and cosmeceuticals which could even be influenced by environmental fact. The global trend in the cosmetic industry towards developing ‘medicinally’ active cosmetics, and in the pharmaceutical industry towards ‘cosmetically’ oriented medicinal products as part of a current ‘life-style’ ideology.

The future promises increasingly sophisticated formulations for cosmetics and skin-care products. Cosmetic companies are finding ways to deliver small dose ingredients that do not require medical regulations and to introduce steroids and hormones into lip balms, which would result in production of cosmeceuticals that could help to improve body mass, nail, and hair growth. New challenges will also be presented to government regulatory agencies as more chemicals with true biological activity are invented and tested. Claim substantiation and premarketing testing must also evolve to accurately assess efficacy and safety issues with important implications for total body health.

The new vehicles and delivery systems combined with established ingredients will alter percutaneous absorption, requiring re- evaluation of substances with an assumed good safety profile . Biotechnology will also compete directly with the pharmaceuticals and cosmetic businesses. The most influential angle over the coming 5 years will be the links between internal health, beauty, and anti-aging. The next big beauty trend will include "skingestibles" that will promote beauty from the inside out, borrowing of pharmaceutical terms for cosmetic applications, amino peptides to make the skin more elastic, neuron mediators which are chemicals to tell the brain to be happy and the blurring of boundaries between surgeries.

NOT MY OWN WORK. The above is taken from:

Comprehensive review on cosmeceuticals B shireesha, Shyamala and Sathoorimanasa. Department of pharmacy, Joginpally B R pharmacy college, Hyderabad, Telangana, India. Department of pharmaceutical analysis, Joginpally B R Pharmacy College, Hyderabad, Telangana, India. International Journal of Science and Research Archive, 2023, 08(01), 649–654 Article DOI: https://doi.org/10.30574/ijsra.2023.8.1.0066