NeuroCosmetics

The concept of neurocosmetics was developed at the end of the 20th century after researchers had unraveled complex interactions between the nervous system and skin function. Important pioneering studies in the early 1990s confirmed the presence of neurotransmitters and their receptors in skin cells.

In 1996: Discovery of substance P's (an 11-amino acid neuropeptide acting as a neurotransmitter and neuromodulator involved in pain, inflammation, wound healing, and emotional responses) role in neurogenic

inflammation of the skin. In this discovery, researchers found out that this neuropeptide has an essential role in the skin's inflammatory process, thus discovering new anti-inflammatory cosmetic interventions. In 2001: Discovery of the cutaneous endocannabinoid system (a complex network of chemical compounds and receptors in the body that regulates various physiological functions), This discovery introduced a new target for neurocosmetic products, especially regarding sebum production regulation and inflammation. 2007: Development of the first commercial neurocosmetic products targeting stress-induced skin aging. These products aim to mitigate the effects of stress-related hormones on skin health 2010: Elucidation of the role of Transient Receptor Potential (TRP) channels in skin sensory functions. The identification rendered new targets to manage sensitive skin conditions. 2015: Discovered the concept of the skinbrain axis in which the commutation channel, both ways, between skin and the central nervous system. To emphasise, this consideration highlighted the possibility of neuro cosmetic interventions impacting the health of the skin and mental wellness.

Understanding the neurological aspects of skin function is crucial for the development of effective neurocosmetic interventions. The skin is innervated by a complex network of sensory neurons, which not only transmit sensory information but also release neurotransmitters and neuropeptides that influence various skin functions.

Anti-aging treatments focus on modulating neuronal pathways in the skin aging process. Neuropeptide-based formulations: peptides like acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) have been shown to mimic the effect of botulinum toxin as it prevents the formation of wrinkles by inhibiting the release of the neurotransmitter at the neuromuscular junctions. Neurotransmitter modulators are components that alter neurotransmitter activity, including niacinamide, and have been found to enhance cellular repair mechanisms and improve the barrier function of the skin. Stress-reduction compounds like adaptogens and other neuroactive ingredients reduce the impact of stress-related hormones, such as cortisol, on skin aging. For example, ashwagandha extract has been reported to decrease cortisol levels and improve stress-induced skin aging.

Pigmentation disorders:

Neuropeptides like α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone (α-MSH) may play an important role in regulating melanogenesis (the biological process in which specialised cells called melanocytes produce melanin, the pigment responsible for hair, skin, and eye colour) by acting on the melanocyte-keratinocyte interaction through neuronal pathways. Compounds like Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine that act as a modulator of α-MSH activity may be used to treat hyperpigmentation. Regulation of neurotransmitter function for the modulation of melanin biosynthesis and serotonin receptors has been linked to Melanogenesis. Modulators of the serotonin pathways are useful in the treatment of melasma and other pigmentary conditions. Oligopeptide-34 is a synthetic peptide that inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces melanin production. It offers a novel neurocosmetic pathway to skin-lightening

Sensitive skin and inflammation:

Compounds that target neurogenic inflammation pathways by blocking the release of pro-inflammatory neuropeptides like substance P antagonists have demonstrated promise in decreasing skin sensitivity and redness. To reduce pruritus and pain, neurotransmitter modulators are being developed. Topical cannabinoid receptor agonists have shown antipruritic effects and provide a neurocosmetic strategy for addressing itchy skin diseases. Corticotropin-Releasing Hormone (CRH) antagonists have shown promise in reducing stress-induced skin inflammation and may be effective in treating conditions like rosacea.

Some active ingredients in neurocosmetics:

Acetyl hexapeptide-8, also known as Argireline, decreases the appearance of wrinkles by blocking muscle movements that cause them.  Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is an artificial peptide that controls interleukin production, decreasing inflammation. Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B3 that impacts neurotransmitter function and enhances skin barrier function.

Cannabidiol (CBD) is a substance that can potentially reduce inflammation and slow down the aging process by modulating the endocannabinoid system. Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-1 works on SNAP-25, similar to Argireline, but through a distinct mechanism. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 andPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000), this peptide combination increases collagen production and enhances skin elasticity. 4-nButylresorcinol inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and tyrosinaserelated Protein-1 (TRP-1), which are important enzymes in the production of melanin synthesis. It has been effective in treating hyperpigmentation disorders.

Neurocosmetics is a new approach to skincare that combines aspects of neuroscience and cosmetic science in an innovative approach. That said, neurocosmetics bring their challenges. Chief among these concerns is safety, especially long-term interactions with homeostasis in the skin and systemic absorption of neuroactive substances. Neucosmetics are also poised at the edge of regulatory laws that have long been kept between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Future Directions in Neurocosmetics will also take promising, diverse directions like artificial intelligence for personalised formulation, research on the gut-brain-skin axis, chronocosmetics resulting in synchrony with skin circadian rhythms and strategies of epigenetic modulation. There are new prospects in neurocosmetics with nano-technology and bioelectronic approaches that may open roads for more targeted and efficient treatments.

Neurocosmetics is a new area that combines neuroscience and cosmetic science to treat skin problems by influencing brain pathways. Research has shown good results, with studies indicating big improvements in skin conditions, like a 27% reduction in wrinkle depth and a 45% decrease in redness. However, moving forward responsibly necessitates consistent safety guidelines, clear regulatory frameworks, and cost-effective delivery methods. AI-powered personalization, research into gut-brain-skin interactions, and rigorous safety and efficacy assessments are required. Neurocosmetics which combines cosmetic science and dermatology to promote overall health and well-being, potentially revolutionizing both preventive skincare and therapeutic dermatological treatments.

NOT MY OWN WORK. Taken from and for further information on this subject, see the original article: (italics, here, are mine)

RAJAGOPAL, SANJAI & SIVANATHAN, GURUBARAN & MAHADEVASWAMY, GIRIDHARA & ANGAMUTHU, GOWTHAM & D., Nagasamy Venkatesh. (2025). NEUROCOSMETICS: AN EXTENSIVE OVERVIEW. International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics. 31-38. 10.22159/ijap.2025v17i2.53210. Department of Pharmaceutics, JSS College of Pharmacy, Ooty, Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu, India and Department of Pharmaceutical Regulator Affairs, JSS College of Pharmacy, Ooty, Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu, India