Looking for Resilient Skincare

Skin aging is a part of a natural human “aging mosaic” which becomes evident and follows different trajectories in different organs, tissues and cells with time. While the aging signs of internal organs are masked from the ambient “eyes,” the skin provides first obvious marks of the passing time. masking signs of ageing to building long-term resilience through deep, cellular repair. Resilient Skincare means strengthening the skin barrier, calming inflammation as well as improving collagen quality and so fortifying the skin against daily stressors.

While the cosmetic industry has largely focused on developing products that enhance the appearance of the skin, there is growing interest in identifying ingredients that can also support the skin’s natural functions and ability to adapt to internal and external stressors. Adaptogens, in particular, have gained attention for their potential to help the skin maintain a healthy balance and resilience.

The definition of adaptogens has constantly evolved since it was coined. The dictionary definition is as follows: “natural substances used in herbal medicine to normalise and regulate the systems of the body”.

The increase in research and scientific evidence to understand the pharmacological and molecular mechanisms of action of these active ingredients has demonstrated that the term adaptogen is related to a physiological process, the adaptation to environmental challenges, which is a multistep process that includes diverse mechanisms of extracellular and intracellular interactions.

Adaptogens are mediators that help plants to persist in stress conditions, defined also as substances causing the “state of unspecific resistance” of an organism. The term adaptogens comprises families of herbal and natural products able to promote the adaptability and survival of living organisms under stress conditions, resulting in a decreased sensitivity to stressors and/or prolonged phase of resistance (stimulatory effect). These compounds are mild stress mimetics at low doses, activating adaptive stress-response signalling pathways to cope with severe stress and have been used in traditional or alternative medicines for preventing premature aging and to maintain good health and vitality

If the beneficial properties of adaptogens have been studied often with oral intake, some studies using topical applications in nonhuman models have also proven their efficacy. It is important to note that certain antioxidant treatments, if used incorrectly, can have negative effects on the skin that are just as harmful as those caused by stress. For instance, treatments that are too concentrated or applied at the wrong time can have adverse effects on the skin. Additionally, some treatments may target the wrong biological pathways, leading to unintended consequences.

To avoid such deleterious effects, it is crucial to adopt an approach that is tailored to the skin’s unique needs, ensuring that antioxidant treatments provide maximum benefits without causing any harm.

Preserving skin cells from oxidative damage and mitochondrial damage can help mitigate the cumulative injuries caused by environmental factors. Innovative approaches contrasting environmental aggressions that accelerate the aging process may employ compounds resulting in adaptogenic effects.

A healthy and functioning skin barrier is important protector against dehydration, penetration of various microorganisms, allergens, irritants, reactive oxygen species and radiation. The skin barrier may be specifically adjusted to allow penetration. For this reason daily skin care may increase skin regeneration, elasticity, smoothness, and thus temporarily change the skin condition.

However, it is necessary to stop the degradation of the skin primary structural constituents, such as collagen, elastin, to prevent the formation of wrinkles. Although the technology required to suitably deliver these compounds into the skin has not yet been developed, some products (an increasing number!) do promote the natural synthesis of these substances except elastin enhancing. Another integral approach preventing wrinkle formation is the reduction of inflammation by topical or systemic antioxidants which should be used in combination with sunscreens and retinoids to enhance their protective effects

While natural aging is genetically determined, extrinsic aging can be prevented. Aesthetic dermatology should contribute to “healthy aging” not only in cosmetic means by trying to erase time vestiges in skin but by also playing a significant part in prevention, regeneration, and delaying of skin aging combining knowledge of possible local and systemic therapy, instrumental devices and invasive procedures, filling the lack of scientific investigations and becoming one of the important focuses of the aging research.

Not my own work, adapted under the Creative Commons Licence. (Italics, here are mine)

Cavagnino, A.; Breton, L.; Ruaux, C.; Grossgold, C.; Levoy, S.; Abdayem, R.; Roumiguiere, R.; Cheilian, S.; Bouchara, A.; Baraibar, M.A.; et al. Adaptogen Technology for Skin Resilience Benefits. Cosmetics 2023, 10, 155. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060155

and:

Ganceviciene R, Liakou AI, Theodoridis A, Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis CC. Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012 Jul 1;4(3):308-19. doi: 10.4161/derm.22804. PMID: 23467476; PMCID: PMC3583892.

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