Essential Oils

Essential oils have emerged as popular natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients in cosmetic products, drawing attention for their therapeutic potential in treating skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. This systematic review analyzed 70 studies from the past decade across multiple databases to evaluate their effectiveness and safety in derma cosmetic applications.

The research encompassed clinical trials, in vitro studies, and in vivo experiments examining various essential oils in different cosmetic formulations, including lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), peppermint (Mentha piperita), hemp (Cannabis sativa), Euphorbia characias, hierba de San Guillermo (Agrimonia eupatoria) and eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus).

Key findings demonstrated that tea tree oil was particularly effective for acne treatment, while lavender and rosemary oils showed promising anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Plant extracts from Ocimum gratissimum and Matricaria chamomilla also yielded positive results for skin health improvement. Various formulations such as gels, creams, and serums showed different levels of effectiveness in enhancing skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance. While the clinical evidence suggests significant potential for essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological applications, researchers emphasise the need for more comprehensive, longterm clinical trials to establish their efficacy and safety profiles fully.

Topical formulations featuring tea tree oil at 200 mg/g concentration in a gel and a facial cleanser containing 7 mg/g of tea tree oil have significantly reduced facial acne lesions. This underscores their potential effectiveness in managing mild to moderate acne. Furthermore, these formulations exhibited a favorable safety and tolerability profile, with only minor, transient adverse effects. Topical formulations indicate that tea tree oil-based treatments may serve as a well-tolerated alternative or complementary approach to conventional acne therapies. In a Phase II pilot study, 18 participants applied the products twice daily for 12 weeks. They observed a significant reduction in the total acne lesions and the investigator’s global assessment (IGA) score over time. However, no serious adverse events were reported, and minor side effects, such as flaking and dryness, were resolved without intervention. Thus, tea tree oil products significantly improve acne and are well tolerated.

Continuing with the previous line, these authors evaluated the anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical serum containing 20% vitamin C, E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract on 50 women aged 30–65. After 2 months of application to one side of the face, a significant improvement in skin color, elasticity, radiance, and smoothness was observed, as well as a reduction in scaliness and wrinkles, although some mild adverse effects, such as tingling and tightness, were reported; the results suggest that this combination of ingredients may be effective in improving the appearance of aging skin.

Likewise, this study investigated the extracts of the red berries of this plant as functional ingredients in cosmetics. Methanolic and aqueous extracts were obtained, and their biological activities on human fibroblasts were analyzed, as well as their ability to inhibit collagenase activity and their immunomodulatory effects on peripheral blood mononuclear cells. The results indicate that both extracts enhance fibroblast migration and have photoprotective properties. Unlike the other studies, this one evaluated the oxidative stability of red raspberry seed oil (RO) under storage conditions at different temperatures (5, 25, and 40°C) for 1 month, both in pure RO and in low-energy nanoemulsions (NE). Synthetic (BHT) and natural antioxidants (ORE and OAK) were used to determine their effectiveness. The results showed that RO with BHT and ORE was stable at 5°C and 25°C, but ORE was prooxidant at 40°C. NE with biodegradable surfactants showed better physicochemical stability at room temperature and at 40°C compared to those containing polysorbate 80. This study was performed in vitro, evaluating the properties under controlled laboratory conditions.

Regarding sun protection, Calendula Officinalis essential oil has shown potential as a UV filter. A study by Pouresmaeil evidenced that its inclusion in cosmetic formulations can contribute to skin protection against UV radiation. However, further studies are needed to determine its safety and stability in commercial products. This highlights the importance of essential oils in the cosmetics and perfumery industry, emphasizing their dual role as natural sources of fragrances and as ingredients with beneficial properties for skin and hair.

Among the plants mentioned, lavender is used for its soothing and healing properties, while tea tree is valued for its antiseptic and sebum-regulating action. Eucalyptus can combat photoaging caused by UV radiation, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and skin dehydration, and citrus oils, such as orange, lemon, and bergamot, are appreciated for their fresh fragrance and antiseptic action.

The growing popularity of essential oils in the cosmetic industry reflects a significant shift toward more natural and sustainable products. This article highlights the efficacy of essential oils in treating various skin conditions, such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis, thanks to their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. As consumers seek alternatives to synthetic ingredients, essential oils offer multifaceted benefits that address specific skin problems and improve overall skin health.

However, regulation of their use in cosmetics remains challenging, given that prior approval is not required for commercialization. This underscores the need for more rigorous research to ensure the safety and effectiveness of these products. Formulation technologies, such as microencapsulation and nanoemulsions, are revolutionizing how essential oils are used, improving their stability and efficacy. In addition, further research into their mechanisms of action and possible interactions is crucial. Combining natural and pharmaceutical approaches can offer comprehensive skin care solutions, promoting a balance between natural beauty and modern dermatological science.

In addition to the previously mentioned limitations, other studies have highlighted additional constraints that affect the robustness and applicability of the results on the use of essential oils in dermo-cosmetic products. One of the main limitations is the high variability in the chemical composition of essential oils, even when they come from the same plant species. Factors such as geographical origin, cultivation conditions, extraction method, and storage can significantly alter the concentration and profile of bioactive compounds, making the reproducibility of the effects observed in different investigations difficult.

Not my own work. Taken from:

Pezantes-Orellana C, German Bermúdez F, Montalvo J, Packer T, Orellana-Manzano A. Evaluating efficacy, safety, and innovation in skin care applications of essential oils: a systematic review. Front Med (Lausanne). 2025 Aug 21;12:1589691. doi: 10.3389/fmed.2025.1589691. PMID: 40917836; PMCID: PMC12408269.

Copyright © 2025 Pezantes-Orellana, German Bermúdez, Montalvo, Packer and Orellana-Manzano.

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