Something about Peptides

Peptides first entered the cosmeceutical field in 1973 when Pickart et al. proposed the synthetic peptide glycine–histidine–lysine tripeptide (GHK) as a signal peptide that could both enhance collagen production and act as a carrier peptide when complexed with copper. Later, it was determined that the same tripeptide might be liberated by proteases at the site of a wound and exert in situ healing effects by acting as a natural feedback signal to fibroblasts to stimulate the neosynthesis of ECM proteins.

(Extra Cellular Matrix - a sort of scaffold, coordinating cellular activities like growth, differentiation, and repair)

Recently, the cosmetic industry has seen impressive development due to a better understanding of the skin’s physiological mechanisms and a growing demand for innovative products. This has led to the expansion of new research techniques, novel active ingredients, and vehicles, changing our understanding of how cosmetics influence and improve skin conditions. These developments have propelled cosmetics into a new era of scientifically engineered products for the development of a wide range of skin phenotypes and affections.

Originally conceived as preparations intended to improve personal appearance by direct application to the skin, cosmetics have now taken a new role in dermatology by supporting the management of many skin conditions

Bioactive peptides, usually containing 3–30 amino acids (AA), are natural or synthetic compounds involved in a variety of physiological activities such as cellular protection, thermoregulation, and immunity. Peptides exhibit many biological properties, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes

The most common classification of cosmetic peptides is based on their mechanism of action as follows: signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides.

Cosmetic peptides have emerged as powerful, innovative tools in modern skincare, offering solutions to a variety of skin concerns. They have become remarkable compounds due to their main purpose as anti-wrinkle agents. Cosmetic peptides reduce existing wrinkles and prevent new ones from forming through a variety of mechanisms of action, which can act synergically for enhanced results. Signal peptides are used to stimulate fibroblast cells to increase collagen production and improve skin elasticity; neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides relax facial muscles, minimising expression wrinkles; carrier peptides deliver essential trace elements to support skin repair, and enzyme inhibitor peptides reduce collagen breakdown, preserving the integrity of the skin.

Furthermore, several peptides can also possess antioxidant properties, counteracting the excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Different factors such as UV radiation, toxins, inflammation, or other exogenous or endogenous agents can intensify its negative effects. Peptides contribute to the reduction in oxidative stress in the skin by scavenging free radicals through different pathways, resulting in delaying the skin’s aging process

Peptides are promising active ingredients that have raised the interest of many scientists in the cosmetic industry due to their unique anti-aging properties. Studies demonstrate their efficacy in products used to improve the appearance of aging signs and highlight the need for further research to achieve their full potential. Cosmetic peptides have various mechanisms of action that allow them to modulate intracellular pathways, thus also preventing the development of new aging signs such as wrinkles, fine lines, loss of firmness, and elasticity.

Despite the numerous advantages that recommend peptides for anti-aging use, their shortcomings often limit their application. The advances in product formulation have facilitated ways to overcome their limitations regarding membrane permeability and dermal delivery. Novel nano-formulations are now available to incorporate cosmetic peptides for easier delivery into the dermis. Nevertheless, chemical enhancers and physical methods such as electroporation, microneedles, sonophoresis, and thermal ablation are methods that can be used for better permeation through the stratum corneum. Considering this, cosmetic peptides are active ingredients that can be used to develop innovative products with enhanced permeability through the skin barrier and superior efficiency.

Not my own work (I have taken out the very medical elements) taken from:

Tamara W Griffiths, Rachel E B Watson, Abigail K Langton, Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies, British Journal of Dermatology, Volume 189, Issue Supplement_1, October 2023, Pages i17–i23, https://doi.org/10.1093/bjd/ljad282

Main part is from:

Pintea A, Manea A, Pintea C, Vlad RA, Bîrsan M, Antonoaea P, Rédai EM, Ciurba A. Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review. Biomolecules. 2025 Jan 9;15(1):88. doi: 10.3390/biom15010088. PMID: 39858482; PMCID: PMC11762834.

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