Cosmeceuticals

One of the earliest advances that marked a turning point in cosmetic development was the introduction of the term “cosmeceutical”. Despite its widespread use, the concept has yet to be fully defined in regulatory terms. The term was originally coined in 1984 by Dr. Kligman to refer to products positioned between traditional cosmetics and pharmacological agents.

The term "cosmeceuticals" was first applied in the context of Tretinoin experimentation and has since been extended to include compounds such as Vitamin C, Alpha- and Beta-Hydroxy Acids, and Azelaic Acid. The key distinction between cosmeceuticals and other cosmetic formulations lies in the existence of the extensive scientific literature supporting their efficacy. However, consumer-facing communication must remain clear, as cosmeceuticals, despite their pharmacological attributes, cannot be promoted as medicinal products.

From a regulatory perspective, no differentiation is currently made between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, a cosmeceutical may be understood as a cosmetic with demonstrable biological activity, recognised safety and efficacy, or in certain cases, reclassified as a pharmaceutical, as exemplified by Tretinoin. This represents a regulatory gap yet to be addressed.

Greater clarity is warranted for consumers, who should be made aware that not all cosmetic products are equivalent.

Advances in cosmetic science continue to focus primarily on skin rejuvenation, with recent attention directed toward the application of Exosomes. These are extracellular vesicles secreted by cells to mediate intercellular communication, with their composition, DNA, RNA, proteins, or lipids, determined by the cellular environment in which they are generated. Exosomes are nano-sized structures of complex biological activity. In dermatology, their use has been reported in wound healing, the management of alopecia, and anti-aging interventions.

Their isolation from human tissue remains technically challenging, and the full extent of their biological function has yet to be established due to their multifaceted mechanisms of action. In cosmetic dermatology, exosomes derived from adipose-derived stem cells have been employed to mitigate signs of aging by reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS), inhibiting mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways, activating tumoral growth factor beta (TGF-β), and downregulating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), thereby promoting extracellular matrix synthesis. Comparable outcomes to platelet-rich plasma (PRP) have been demonstrated in terms of wrinkle reduction, erythema, desquamation, and skin texture improvement. Additionally, exosomal microRNAs derived from bone marrow have shown potential in preventing collagen degradation in the dermis.

Another emerging area in cosmetic and facial rejuvenation involves the use of growth factors and Cytokines. A decline in endogenous growth factor production and fibroblast activity is known to occur with aging. The topical application of growth factors has been associated with clinical improvement in photoaged skin, including reductions in wrinkles, pigmentation and photodamage. These results have been achieved with prolonged use over weeks to months, either as monotherapy or in combination with Cytokines or antioxidants.

Bioactive peptides are being progressively added in dermatological formulations due to their capacity to promote collagen production, stimulate fibroblast activity, regulate pigmentation, and reinforce the skin’s barrier function. These peptides are typically categorized based on their mode of action into signaling peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, and enzyme-inhibiting peptides. Peptide effectiveness has been substantiated by both in vitro and ex vivo studies. To enhance dermal absorption and stability, delivery systems often employ advanced nanocarriers, including liposomes and nano-emulsions.

Biotic ingredients in cosmetic formulations—probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics—contribute to skin microbiota balance and barrier function through distinct mechanisms. Probiotics are live beneficial microorganisms that can modulate the microbiome and reduce inflammation, though their use in topicals is limited by stability and safety concerns. Prebiotics are non-digestible compounds that selectively promote the growth of beneficial skin bacteria and support immune and hydration responses. Postbiotics, composed of non-viable microbial cells, fragments, or metabolites, offer enhanced formulation stability and safety, exerting antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and barrier-strengthening effects. Among these, postbiotics are emerging as particularly promising for topical use due to their efficacy and favorable safety profile

Marine-derived biopolymers, especially polysaccharides such as Alginate, Fucoidan, Carrageenan, Ulvan, and Laminarin, are increasingly incorporated into facial cosmetic creams for their multifunctional properties and sustainable origin. Extracted from various algae and microalgae, these compounds form hydrogels with excellent water retention, stability, and emulsifying capacity; ideal for skin hydration and cream formulation. Beyond their physical functions, marine polysaccharides offer potent antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects, with some modulating pigmentation and extracellular matrix components. Their biodegradability, renewability, and low environmental impact make them attractive natural alternatives, and recent studies support their high biocompatibility and safety for topical use.

Botanical extracts such as Gallic Acid, Ferulic Acid, flavonoids, and polyphenols are widely used in facial cosmetic creams for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. These compounds help neutralise reactive oxygen species, reduce oxidative stress, and modulate inflammatory mediators, thereby protecting against ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin damage and premature aging. Gallic Acid supports wound healing and hyperpigmentation treatment; Ferulic Acid enhances the efficacy of vitamins C and E; and flavonoids and polyphenols help preserve collagen by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (a family of zinc-dependent endo-peptidases that degrade extracellular matrix (ECM) components, including collagen, gelatin, and elastin). When combined, these actives act synergistically to address multiple aging pathways. Advanced delivery systems further improve their stability and skin penetration, making them valuable components in modern anti-aging formulations.

Facial cosmetics are evolving through advances in formulation science, biotechnology, and enabling technologies. While several ingredient classes (e.g., antioxidants, barrier-supporting agents, and well-characterised cosmeceuticals) are supported by comparatively stronger human evidence, other emerging areas (exosome-based products and some growth factor preparations) remain evidence-limited and require standardised manufacturing, vigorous clinical endpoints, and long-term safety data.

NOT MY OWN WORK. Taken from: (Italics, here, are mine)

Sagastume-Canova, R.; Fernández-Guarino, M. Emerging Trends in Facial Cosmetics: Innovation, Science, and Sustainable Beauty. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 58. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020058

Copyright © 2026 by the authors.

The above is taken from an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) and the copyright owner(s) are credited and that the original publication is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.