Cannabis and Skincare

Cannabidiol (CBD), a non-psychoactive phytocannabinoid derived from Cannabis sativa L., has emerged as a promising multifunctional agent in dermatology and cosmetic science. The review provides an updated synthesis of CBD’s topical therapeutic potential, challenges, and evolving regulatory frameworks. CBD exhibits diverse biological effects, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, analgesic, lipostatic, antiproliferative, moisturising, and anti-ageing properties through interactions with the skin’s endocannabinoid system (ECS).

Preclinical and clinical evidence support its efficacy in managing acne, psoriasis (including scalp psoriasis), atopic and seborrheic dermatitis, and allergic contact dermatitis. CBD also relieves pruritus through neuroimmune modulation and promotes wound healing in conditions such as pyoderma gangrenosum and epidermolysis bullosa. In hair disorders such as androgenetic alopecia, it aids follicular regeneration. CBD shows promise in managing skin cancers (melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, Kaposi sarcoma) and pigmentation disorders such as melasma and vitiligo. It enhances skin rejuvenation by reducing oxidative stress and boosting collagen and hydration. However, there are challenges regarding CBD’s physicochemical stability, skin penetration, and regulatory standardisation. As consumer demand for natural, multifunctional skincare grows, further research is essential to validate its long-term safety, efficacy, and optimal formulation strategies.

In recent years, there has been an increase in the development and use of more cannabis-derived products for therapeutic or cosmetic applications. Growing interest in cannabinoids or other bioactive compounds extracted from the cannabis plant has been driven by their potential therapeutic effects and their beneficial properties for skin health. Thus, cannabinoids are increasingly being incorporated into dermatological and cosmetic products.

Due to its therapeutic potential, CBD is a promising candidate for treating various dermatological and inflammatory conditions (e.g., atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, and wound healing). Topical administration allows CBD to act directly at the site of application, reducing systemic side effects and enhancing localised therapeutic outcomes. Thus, CBD faces challenges in permeating the skin barrier due to its lipophilic nature. However, advancements in formulation technologies (e.g., nanoencapsulation) are being explored to improve its bioavailability and efficacy.

Consumers are increasingly drawn to multifunctional skincare products that offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-ageing benefits. Multifunctional cosmetic ingredients are characterised by their capacity to provide a range of benefits, often combining protective, stabilising, and sensory-enhancing properties. These attributes enable them to address multiple skin concerns concurrently while maintaining the integrity and stability of the overall formulation. CBD can be considered a multifunctional compound due to its numerous demonstrated biological effects. In addition, biocosmetics have significant growth potential and emerging business opportunities, and there is an urgent need to transition from conventional fossil-based ingredients to natural, safe, and effective alternatives in cosmetic formulations

Due to CBD’s lipophilic nature and poor water solubility, its effective topical and transdermal delivery remains a challenge, limiting its penetration beyond the skin surface. To overcome this, various advanced delivery systems have been developed to enhance the bioavailability and therapeutic efficacy of CBD. These include chemical penetration enhancers, such as oleic acid, as well as innovative carriers, including hydrogels, liposomes, micelles, nanoemulsions, polymeric nanoparticles, and solid lipid nanoparticles. Physical enhancement techniques, such as microneedles and ultrasound, are also being explored. Among these, colloidal systems and nanoformulations have shown superior skin layer penetration in comparative studies.

Future CBD-based topical products are expected to benefit from advances in formulation science. Innovative delivery systems are being developed to enhance CBD’s skin penetration and stability. The new technologies aim to overcome CBD’s lipophilicity and poor water solubility, ensuring more effective delivery to target skin layers.

Additionally, synergistic formulations combining CBD with retinoids, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and botanical extracts are gaining traction due to their potential to enhance therapeutic outcomes in anti-ageing, acne, and barrier-repair products. While these combinations are present in commercial products, the scientific evidence on their synergistic mechanisms is still limited

A major challenge is the widespread misinformation and exaggerated marketing claims surrounding CBD-based skincare products. Many commercial formulations lack standardisation, and product labelling often fails to accurately reflect cannabinoid content or purity, leading to diminished consumer trust and increased regulatory concerns. Addressing this issue necessitates greater transparency, third-party testing, and adherence to emerging international standards. Educating consumers and healthcare professionals about the science behind CBD’s dermatological effects is crucial for dispelling myths and promoting evidence-based use.

Niche markets, such as post-procedure recovery, sensitive skin, and men’s grooming, offer untapped potential for targeted CBD formulations. In post-procedure care, CBD’s anti-inflammatory and soothing properties can support skin regeneration and reduce discomfort following dermatological treatments, such as laser therapy or chemical peels. For individuals with sensitive skin, CBD’s ability to modulate inflammatory pathways and reinforce the skin barrier makes it a promising alternative to harsher actives. Additionally, the men’s grooming segment, often underserved in skincare innovation, can benefit from CBD’s calming and anti-irritant effects, particularly in products designed for shaving, beard care, or post-shave recovery. Applications of CBD align with growing consumer demand for personalised, functional skincare solutions and present a strategic opportunity for brands to differentiate themselves in a competitive market.

Although CBD exhibits promising therapeutic potential, the use of CBD in dermatology and cosmetics remains constrained by several factors, including suboptimal physicochemical characteristics, limited transdermal permeability, the absence of standardised formulations, and variability in regulatory frameworks. Additionally, safety concerns and the need for more robust clinical evidence persist. Future research should focus on optimising delivery systems, clarifying mechanisms of action, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to confirm efficacy and long-term safety. With continued innovation and scientific validation, CBD may become a valuable and well-integrated active ingredient in dermatological and cosmetic therapies, as well as in emerging applications within oral health care.

(Not my own work) The above is taken from the open access article:

Rusu, A.; Farcaș, A.-M.; Oancea, O.-L.; Tanase, C. Cannabidiol in Skin Health: A Comprehensive Review of Topical Applications in Dermatology and Cosmetic Science. Biomolecules 2025, 15, 1219. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom15091219

(Organic Chemistry Department, Faculty of Pharmacy, (et alia) George Emil Palade University of Medicine, Pharmacy, Science and Technology of Târgu Mureș, 540142 Târgu Mureș, Romania)

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